Owners Manual For 2018 Kz Frontier
Most RV’s and camper trailers utilize the same types of electrical systems as those used for an average small home. But in addition to the 110 volt electrical supply, there may also be lights, fans, a refrigerator, or other electrical devices which use a 12 volt supply, like that of a car or truck. A 12-volt DC system powers the RV refrigerator to keep food cold while the RV or camper trailer is moving from place to place. The same goes for the lights and fans. It also keeps the on-board batteries fully charged. This system relies on the 110-volt AC electrical power supply for amperage.
View current and past owner’s manuals from K-Z RV. 2018; Durango. Sportsmen Classic & Spree Escape. Sportsmen LE. Sportsmen, Spree, Spree Connect & Spree Connect Lite.
It is possible to pull a 12-volt power supply from the RV or camper trailer's electrical system or 110-volt campsite power supply. Then the 110-volt supply can be stepped down to 12 volts after it is run through a power converter and to a particular appliance. Most of RV systems will switch from the 110-volt AC to the 12 volt DC supply automatically when there is a power interruption. These two electrical systems are treated independently from each other when diagnosing electrical problems, except for determining power to the converter. This translates to:. 110 volt power- converter- 12 volt power- 12 volt breaker box - refrigerator or lights As in a home, the 12-volt system has its own set of breakers to control each circuit.
The lights, fans, or refrigerator may each be on their own circuits, depending on the amperage required. If the converter is supplying 12 volts to the breaker panel and the breakers test positive for voltage, this leaves the wiring or the particular appliance at fault. If you are not familiar with electrical wiring or troubleshooting electrical systems there are some very good books available to help you understand and repair common RV electrical problems. I would recommend RV Electrical Systems: A Basic Guide to Troubleshooting, Repairing and Improvement to any novice and experienced electrician alike. It will be an enormous aid to understanding RV electrical systems.
Another must for tracing down electrical problems is a voltage meter. This handy tool will allow you to check the circuits for continuity and for the correct voltage required for each breaker.
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A simple test light can be used but will not test for broken circuits caused by bad wiring or other electrical problems. Both of these tools are inexpensive to own and will more than pay for themselves over time. The voltage meter can be used for home electrical problems as well as any other electrical related problem. Both are offered on this page for a reasonable price. The 110 volt outlets used in some RVs and camper trailers are prone to shorts because of the way they are installed. Some are merely clipped onto the wiring by cutting into the wires. These types are notorious for not working correctly.
Replace these types of outlets with standard house types to put and end to loose connections. Since some of the walls are so thin, a smaller receptacle box may be required for the outlet to fit flush in the walls. Ground fault interrupter outlets are another common cause of electrical problems. These are located in places where a possibility exists of someone touching them with wet hands. They automatically break the circuit when moisture comes in contact with the outlet to prevent shock to the person touching them.
A simple reset button must be pressed for the circuit to once again be completed. On occasion they will need to be replaced or the other outlets on the line will not work either.
Pay close attention to the instructions when replacing these GFIs. In older RVs and camper trailers you may still find fuses instead of circuit breakers. Since the advent of many new electrical devices, these older fuse systems may not provide enough amperage to handle a microwave or other high amp appliance without blowing a fuse or kicking a breaker. Simply replacing the fuse or breaker with a higher amp substitute may be all that’s required.
Replacement of the entire breaker box may be the only option remaining if this doesn’t solve the problem. The newer RVs and camper trailers may have two RV A/C rooftop units which require more amperage than the older models to operate without kicking the standard 30-amp power supply used by many campgrounds. Fortunately, many campgrounds and RV parks now provide 50-amp service for these types of units. When making reservations or checking in, be sure to ask about the availability of a 50-amp hook-up if you own a unit with multiple A/C units. Keeping your electrical systems in good and safe working order insures a trouble free camping trip with no sudden power outages to ruin the trip.
Most problems can be repaired easily if you understand how the system works. RV electrical manuals along with a few inexpensive tools are well worth the cost of their purchase. If you are completely confused by electrical wiring there are also some very good basic books to start you off. It isn’t very hard at all to check electrical circuits, switches or outlets with an inexpensive voltmeter. Just remember, when touching any wires be sure the power to that particular circuit is off. If in doubt, turn off the main breaker or unplug the RV or camper trailer from the power supply. Happy camping!
Michael, when connected to shore power the converter is producing a 12 volt DC charge to the battery which power the running lights and tail lights. There's probably a bad ground somewhere, and more than likely, it's the battery ground cable where it attaches to the steel frame of the camper. This is the main ground for the 12 volt system and all sorts of weird stuff happens on the 12 volt system when this ground is corroded or loose. Try cleaning this connection well and see if this fixes the problem. Hey, Randy me and my husband were camping last week and the camper would not switch over from the battery to electric.
We called camping world and they told us we need to buy a new converter so we bought that and put it on and it fixed it but the bedroom outlets do not work and our refrigerator will not switch over from propane to electric and we have no idea what to do we have checked the breaker and the outlet for it and they are fine. We have a 2017 27 foot mallard and are 20 days over the warranty. Its a 30 amp camper or atleast thats what we have used the last year and never had any problems. Any advice or suggestions would be greatly appreciated thank you in advance!!
We have an Onan generator that has been working fine both while driving and parked when we have place to plug-in. However, we just stopped this evening and can not seem to get it to run. We also have an external generator, so started that up and still no power coming to motor home. But there seems to be juice to the plugs.
Living tonight on battery. Thinking maybe converter, but not sure where to start eliminating problems. Did notice that the GFCI in bathroom will not reset. Any thoughts?
We are in middle of long road trip and growing frustrated. Hello, need some help please. I have a 2004 Rockwood by Forest River. I experienced circuit breakers tripping and they were really hot. The converter was very hot (think the fan was bad). I replaced the converter and put in a new Battery (RV Deep Cycle). I notice the hot leg on the power cord was fried on both ends.
So I replaced the 30a box with an RV box and bought a new power cord. My problem is now I have 110v at the breakers but nothing 110v has power. The 12v system works fine, but no 110v at receptacles. Have reset GFCI rec.
Not sure where to go from here. Landon, I've had this same question from other campers with a GFIC at home which trips when the camper is plugged in. I think it may be due to the way a camper is grounded which makes the GFIC trip, especially if the GFIC doesn't have the necessary amps to supply everything needed. I haven't heard back from any of those with a similar problem so It's a bit of a puzzle at this time. Perhaps you can solve this mystery, Landon. I have no way to check for this problem as I cannot duplicate it.
I'd be pleased-and so would others I suspect-if you let me know what you find. I have 1999 Skyline Nomad. Everything worked great last fall when i winterized it for the winter. This spring I plugged it in to the house and tripped the gfi on the house right away. After plugging it into a non gif outlet everything will work. I did some testing and have it narrowed down to the water heater and the fridge. Even after I turn off the switch to the water heater the gif still trips with the fridge.
Yet the fridge will run on the battery and gas. Any thoughts on what could be the issue? I'm thinking the water heater issue is the heating element. We have a 2006 puma I have it plug in to 30 amp 110 I cant seen to fig out how to get the fridge microwave or the water heater to work the fridge will not cool on gas or electric the micro wave is just blank I have checked all the breaker and they are all in the on position fuse are all good I am new to this r v repair as this is my step daughter camper and I told her that I would help to try to get things in good operating order but we have no manuals or literature on how to repair or operate things like the fridge or hot water heater. I know where the micro wave plugs in we don't have any voltage.so any help would be appreciated Thanks Andrew. I have a 2017 Forrest River Cherokee. I apparently have a dead short.
Power feedback through neutral. When all breakers are off except the main. It shows 220v. Right side of bus bar shows 48v when any breaker is turned on.
Left side shows 140v when any breaker is turned on. Any ideas where to start.
Was working good on 110v volt at home. When hooked to 50amp service heard a loud pop and saw smoke coming from breaker box. No wires appeared burnt. No breakers tripped. No fuses blown.
It was first trip of the year. No issues last year. Hi, I recently moved. When plugging my trailer house in at my new (old) home, I noticed things don’t work the same.
The lights go from bright to dim, the furnace no longer works and the power converter has a hissing sound with an occasional fan turning on. I hired a licensed electrician to come install breakers at the power source along with new wiring. The problem didn’t go away. I had the power source checked and everything seems good. The electrician suggested the power converter in the trailer, but also assured me he is not an expert in that field.
Could he be right? Prior to moving 2 miles everything in the trailer worked perfectly. The power converter brand is Parallax series 7300.
I just purchased a 2013 Rockwood Freedom 1940 LTD pop-up. The seller stated they he had already replaced the converter and I verified this by looking at the date code. The battery is only a couple years old but it appears to be bad but I haven't completely verified this yet. I noticed that when the popup is on shore power or when hooked to my truck with the popup's trailer plug; I can hear the battery sizzling and it appears to have boiled over. I obviously keep it unplugged now. I was thinking of adding distilled water and charging to see where I'm at with it.
Is it possible the converter is overcharging my battery causing it to do this? How do I know exactly? Also, I don't know how well the battery was cared for before I acquired the camper. I measured the voltage on the battery when it was charging and it was 13.2 volts or so. I know some of the converters are a little more sophisticated than others and stop charging once the battery reaches a certain level. My current converter is a WFCO WF-8725-P. Thanks for the help!
I have a 2006 star craft travel trailer. I am having a DC power problem. When Im plugged into a into external power everything works, when i unplug and try running off of batter is when Im having problems. All of my led lights work but when I try using anything else (ie water pump, frig, or even radio) the lights go out and and i get an alarm and gauge shows batter is 1/3 charged. Brand new battery by the way. When i check battery voltage with meter at battery it is 12 volts.
When i check the voltage at the terminals where the battery connects at the converter it measures 9.5 volts. If I disconnect the wire coming from the battery at the converter and test voltage it is 12 volts. When i connect back to external power at the converter i read 18 volts where the battery connects to converter. Now im not sure where the problem is but it looks like the ac to dc converter is working could the problem be just the board all the DC wires are connected to?
My camper uses the ELX-45. Any help would be appreciated. Having an electrical issue with 1998 Alpenlite truck camper. Issues with the furnace and the exhaust vent fan for the stove. Both of these work fine with shore power.
However, on 12 V, the furnace fan works, but the furnace will not get hot. The fan on the exhaust vent runs, but does not have enough oomph to open the plastic vent cover.
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Is this an issue with the converter? New deep cycle 12 V battery is in place with full charge. Water pump works fine, refrigerator (Dometic) works fine as well. No apparent issues with lights. Any thoughts would be appreciated.
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