If you crave manual control over your laundry load, the Maytag Centennial. Pros / This washing machine offers a fair amount of manual control over each wash. All: I have a Maytag Centennial Top Load Washing Machine (Model #: MVWC400XW0) that does not spin during a SPIN cycle. I have attempted to get it to spin during a normal '.

1. Maytag Mvwc6esww1

Rated 1 out of 5 by Margo99 from Piece of junk I can’t believe they’re still selling these. I got one about 6 years ago and immediately started having problems. Went to Maytag website a couple of years later and saw literally hundreds of bad reviews. Emailed Maytag and they basically said too bad, so sad, and then wiped all those reviews. Finally got rid of it when it wouldn’t spin at all, after putting up with hour long wash cycles, dirty and ripped clothes and soaking wet clothes at end of cycles.

Maytag Mvwc6esww1

Now I see they want to discuss this with people lodging complaints?? They deserve a great big class action suit for this one. No more Maytag ANYTHING for me, and thanks a million for your original “too bad” response to my complaint. Rated 1 out of 5 by Schmax from Horrible from the start! I bought the washer & dryer pair around 4 years ago from Home Depot when my GE dryer died. I should have kept my GE washer.

This washer has been a headache since I got it. It now stops at the rinse and drain setting, so won’t spin. The lid lock is annoying and I have to unplug it to get it open. Even when it worked, I didn’t thing my whites looked clean. I had my GE washer for 30 years without a problem.

This one died within 4 years. I will never buy a Maytag again. Rated 1 out of 5 by Robert Waz from Avoid Bought this model from Home Depot a few years back for my mother. About 18 months ago it started stopping at the rinse cycle.

You would need to go back and hit the 'start' button a couple times. If you didn't it would eventually drain then the indicator would move to 'done'.

Now it has added to stopping prior to the Spin cycle. So sometimes it'll make it through Rinse then stop. You go to put your clothes in the dryer and they're still soaking wet. Other cons.very long washing cycles.

Inconsistent quality of cleaning. The one pro I can list for this is the water savings.

Always disconnect the washing machine’s power supply before working on your washer! Whirlpool Corp.

Released this belt driven Maytag Centennial washer in late 2010 as a lower cost energy saving washing machine. Most of these newer Maytag Centennial washing machines begin their model numbers with MVW. Earlier versions of the Maytag Centennial washing machines where well built but had very different washer mechanics, Those Centennial washer models usually start with MTW. The repair guide for the direct drive washer models is here Here is a list of some of the models for this Maytag Centennial belt drive washer repair guide Obviously this causes some confusion when your looking for washer repair and diagnostic help! The best way to tell without looking under your washer’s skirt for a belt is a bank of 6 status lights on the console like the picture to the right.

More expensive models may have a 7th “soak” or “prewash” light, but diagnostic, troubleshooting, and repair is the same. I want to like this new style of Maytag Centennial washer However, many of this washers mechanical and electrical parts are already developing a reputation for problems. In addition the Maytag Centennial washer is also very slow to fill and wash due to the load sensing process and has fairly noisy lock and motor functions compared with earlier washers that are no longer available. Fortunately, if you can correctly diagnose your washer’s problem, most repairs on the new Maytag Centennial fairly simple do yourself! Maytag Centennial Washer Diagnostic Mode & Tests The washer’s diagnostic mode can be used to troubleshoot washer problems by viewing logged washer errors, performing an automatic diagnostic cycle, or manually turning on and off different washer parts to test for proper operation. Some versions of this washer type have a digital display that will show an error code, but most use the status lights on the washer console to flash a sequence that can then be interpreted into the code. The “Fill” light or “Sensing” and “Soak” lights are “F” on the first part of the code The second “E” part of the code will not use the “Fill”, “Sensing”, or “Soak” Lights.

The “wash” light is “8”. The “rinse” light is “4”. The “spin” light is “2”. the “done” light is “1” So you may see something like “sensing” (F) and “rinse”(4), “spin”(2), and “done”(1) flash. 4+2+1=7 so F7 Then “sensing”(E) and “done”(1) so E1 The code F7E1 is a sensor fault so you would want to check the washer sensor with your diagnostic test.

This is how you get into the washer’s diagnostic mode. Turn the washer control dial at least 3 full rotations to the left like you were clearing a combination lock. Then rotate the knob 3 clicks to the right, one to the left, and one more to the right, with about a half second to one second between clicks.

If you got it right all the lights on the washer console should light up and flash. If it didn’t work clear to the left again and focus on the time between clicks. Once you have all the washer’s lights flashing you have 3 main options.

You can select an automatic diagnostic cycle, manual diagnostics, or view stored error codes. It’s best to start with the error codes so you know what you are starting with, and you may create more with your diagnostic tests.

Rotate the knob to the right until only the “done” light is lit and press start. The washer will then display any error codes that can be advanced by turning the washer’s cycle knob to the right. The washer stores the 4 most recent fault codes. If only the “fill” or “sensing” light is lit then you have reached the last fault code or there was nothing wrong with the washer detected by the control. Next write down your codes and erase them by exiting the Centennial washer’s diagnostics.

To exit the Maytag Centennial diagnostics press and hold the “start” button for about 3 seconds.(AgainThis will erase error codes in the Centennial washer’s memory.) Now you can run a Maytag Centennial automatic diagnostic washer cycle. You will need to start the diagnostics mode again, but this time turn the Centennial washer’s cycle knob right until only the “spin” light is lit and press “start”. The washer will do a quick cycle that will test all the washer functions. You can then go back all look for new fault codes to narrow down the washer’s problem. This is as quick summery of the Maytag Centennial washer’s automatic diagnostic test and what lights are lit for each step. Note: you can advance each step manually by pressing the “start” button.

Maytag Centennial Washer Faults & Errors. Error F0 = no Centennial fault has been recorded. Error F0E2 = Centennial washer drain problem, to much soap suds. Error F0E4 = water during washer’s rinse cycle is more that 105º.

Error F0E5 = Centennial washer is off balance. Error F1E1 = Centennial washer main control fault. Error F1E2 = Centennial washer motor control fault. The motor control is integrated into the main washer control. Error F2E1 = a Centennial washer control key has been pressed for more than 15 seconds. Error F2E3 = mismatch of the washer’s main control and the washer’s user interface control. Error F3E1 = Centennial washer pressure sensor fault.

Error F3E2 = Centennial water valve temperature sensor fault. Error F5E1 = Centennial washer lid switch fault. Error F5E2 = Centennial washer lid lock fault. Error F5E3 = Centennial washer lid unlock fault.

Error F7E1 = Centennial washer basket speed sensor fault. Error F7E5 = Centennial washer shifter fault. Error F7E6 = Centennial washer motor fault.

Error F7E7 = Centennial washer sensor thinks washer was unable to reach target spin speed. Error F8E1 = Centennial washer pressure sensor thinks it is not filling or is taking too long to fill with water. Error F8E3 = Centennial washer pressure sensor thinks that the washer has over filled with water. Error F8E5 = Centennial Washer valve thermostat thinks the hot and cold water hoses are reversed. Error F9E1 = the Centennial washer is taking to long to drain. Quick study. Centennial Washer Control The control board (PCB) is the brains of the Centennial washer and is responsible for sending power to the correct washer part at the proper time for the proper amount of time. The Centennial washer’s control also receives and interprets information sent from various washer sensors, like the tub sensor, valve thermostat, and lid latch.

The Centennial washer’s control also stores information that you can use to troubleshoot your washer’s problem! Fault codes related to the washer’s control are, and really any other fault code if the part that the error is pointing at seems to be okay. Always attempt to reset the Centennial washer’s control before replacing it! Putting the Centennial washer through a may reset the control and solve your washers problem. Centennial Pressure Sensor: The pressure sensor is a switch that ties into the control and water valve to regulate how much water is in the tub.

To do this, it uses a sealed hose that is attached to the bottom of the outer wash tub. As water enters the wash tub the pressure in this hose increases causing a diaphragm to flex, opening and closing the switch. This is a fairly reliable part and is rarely the cause of washer problems. Fault codes related to the washer’s pressure sensor are and. The pressure sensor connects to the washer control at the J4 terminal. The main washer problem associated with a bad pressure switch or hose is an overflowing washer! The pressure switch hose is much more likely to cause an overflow problem that the Centennial washer’s pressure switch, so check the hose for holes and kinks before replacing the pressure switch!

Centennial Lid Lock: The Centennial washer’s lid latch serves one main purpose, to keep your arms attached to your body. To accomplish this task it first senses if the lid is closed or open, and secondly locks the lid. Note: The locking and unlocking function on the Maytag Centennial washer is fairly loud normally, but should not have a stuck, buzzing sound. A properly functioning lock sounds something like this This washer does not have a tub break so the washer tub will coast to a stop from spin. This can take some time.

The lid cannot be unlocked until the tub sensor tells the control that the washer tub has completely stopped spinning. Fault codes related to the lid latch are, and. The lid latch connects to the washer control at the J15 terminal. The main Centennial washer problem associated with a bad lid latch is the lid lock light flashing or the washer not starting. The washer’s lid latch also uses a magnetic strike that is attached to the lid for operation. If the magnet of the strike has swollen with rust it may be the cause of problems instead of the lid lock. Centennial Pulley / Cam: Because this washer is belt driven it uses a pulley to transfer power from the washer’s motor to the washer’s drive system.

This washer type is one of several washers to use a shifter to shift between the washer and spin functions. When the shifter moves the cam into the up position the motor will drive the washer’s agitator or wash plate. When it is in the down position it will drive the inner wash tub for spin.

The only fault code related to the pulley and cam is. The most common Centennial washer problem that has been associated with the washer’s pulley and cam is the bolt that holds the pulley in place becoming loose and allowing the pulley to slip down causing grinding on it’s protective cover, creating a loud fast ticking sound. A loose Centennial pulley sounds something like this Sound Description: Fast agitation function, slow agitation function, then spin function To fix reinstall the bolt with lock tight to secure the bolt from loosening.

If the Cam or pulley are damaged you may also need to replace the Cam assembly. Centennial Motor/ Capacitor: The washer motor does what you would expect, it drives the belt for washer tub and agitation functions. In addition the motor uses a starting capacitor that stores extra energy for a quick discharge to assist with the increased load associated with starting agitator and tub movement. Fault codes related to the washer’s motor and capacitor are, and.

The main problem that can happen with the washer’s motor or capacitor is the washer filling but not washing or spinning. Centennial Actuator/ Sensor: The shifter and tub sensor are housed in one part on this washing machine. The shifter is responsible forraising and lowering the washer’s drive cam to engage and disengage the agitator for wash and the inner tub for spin. Note: It is normal to hear a fairly loud click or pop when the Maytag Centennial washer is shifting between wash and spin functions. While the tub sensor sensor shines invisible light through a perforated disk in the gearcase to sense tub movement.

It then reports back to the washer’s control the tub’s movement status. Fault codes related to the washer’s actuator / sensor are, and.

The most common problem with the Centennial washer’s actuator or sensor is the washer not shifting from agitate to spin or visa versa, and fault codes. This part is the most likely part to fail on the Centennial washers.

Centennial Water Valve: The washer’s water valve controls water flow into the washing machine. It has one hot and one cold valve solenoid that the washer control can open and close to reach a target water temperature based on the information it receives from the valve’s built in thermostat.

The washer’s valve is the most common cause for problems like water slowly leaking into the washer tub when it is off and poor water flow during fill. Fault codes related to the washer’s water valve are, and. The most common problems with the washer’s water valve is slow or no fill or water slowly leaking into the tub when the washer is off. Centennial Drain Pump: The Centennial washer’s drain pump spins a small internal paddle that propels the water out of the washer into your home drain. Small items like coins and socks are fairly common to cause your washer to not drain properly.

The only fault code related to the washer’s drain pump is. The most common problem with the Centennial washer’s drain pump is not draining or slow to drain. Most Centennial washer drain problems can often be fixed by clearing coins or other blockages from the drain pump or pump intake, under the inner tub. Centennial Wash Tub: The washer tub is obviously designed to contain your clothes and the wash water. Not many problems occur with these washer parts apart from damage that may cause a leak. A washer that is not draining may need to have the inner wash tub removed to be able to access and clean a screen cap protecting the drain pump intake. Centennial Gearcase: The Maytag Centennial washer’s gearcase transfers the energy from the motor through the belt and pulley to the drive shaft for agitation and spinning.

There are two main types of gearcase transmissions for this washer type. One with a long drives shaft for an agitator, and one with a short one for models that use a wash plate instead of agitator. The main problem that happens with this part is an even, rough grinding noise during spin. This is caused when the center seal leaks, allowing water to reach the spin bearings creating a loud noise during spin. Error codes related to this part are in extreme case, but usually just a lot of noise. Another cause for noise in spin is the and dragging against the pulley and belt cover! Centennial Suspension: The Centennial washer’s suspension rods are in charge of balancing the wash tub during spin.

It is fairly normal for a washer to go out of balance with one large heavy item in the wash, like a pillow or blanket. However, if the washer regularly has even with all like items the the suspension springs may need to be replaced. The fault code related to the suspension system is. There are a few common problems with the Maytag Centennial washer Washer Drive Pulley Problems: In most cases the washer will basically work normally except for a horrible noise when the washer is washing or spinning. The washer’s can become loose and slip down causing a loud, fast ticking sound whenever the motor is running. In extreme cases the washer’s belt and/or motor pulley can be damaged as a result. If you catch it early, simply add some thread lock onto the pulley nut and tighten it back on.

A loose pulley sounds something like this Sound Description: Fast agitation function, slow agitation function, then spin function Washer Actuator and Tub Sensor Problems: This washer sensor problem usually will show up in the form of a fault code like,. And the washer will not start or run properly. Washer lid lock Problems: The lid latch has been a sore spot on this washer type. Most often washer lid latch problems result in the washer not starting or a fault code such as,. The washer’s lid strike attached to the lid can also swell with rust and not properly operate the lock. Centennial Washer Balance Problems: The Maytag Centennial washer’s tub is suspended on 4 suspension rods located on the outer corners of the washer’s tub.

The spring portion of these tub suspension rods have been known to become soft and allow the tub to bounce, leading to the washer regularly going off balance and banging the inside of the washer during spin. To check the washer’s suspension, press down quickly on each side of the washer’s drum. The Centennial washer’s drum should quickly jump back to it’s original position and stop when released and not bounce. If the washtub bounces or feels particularly soft you may need to replace the suspension kit. Washer Gearcase Problems: Not as common as some other washer issues, but much more costly is a bad center bearing.

Loud, even, grinding with tub movement are commonly caused by a bad bearing that is inside the gearcase. It is not a terribly difficult repair but the part required is costly.

If you are experiencing a noise like I described always check for a loose drive pulley before assuming its the gearcase causing the noise. Looks like there are a lot of you with the same error codes in your Maytag washers. I have model# mvwx600xw0 and I am getting error codes F7/E5. Have replaced the shift actuator and recalibrate it. It worked for a few loads but now doing the same thing again.

Will not spin after rinse cycle and if I try starting it from the beginning, it stays in sensing mode. I know the actuator is working because I have watch it plus I can here it.

The lid lock is working and it fills and drains good. It does look like it’s leaking grease I’m assuming from the gear box but not sure, but the tub turns fine. Does anyone else have any idea of what the heck is wrong with this thing because it seems I have checked everything and it’s still not working. I forgot to add this info in here. If I only put a few items in the washer, sometimes it will spin out fine and complete the entire wash cycle. But if I put even 1/4 load in it, it will not spin after the wash cycle, and that’s when it gets stuck in “sensing”mode. I have to take everything out of the washer, run a test cycle, reset the codes, then i can start the cycle from the beginning again but only with a few items in it.

When it gets stuck after the rinse cycle, it won’t even attempt to spin, the actuator just sits then and moves back and forth but will not do anything else. Hope maybe this extra info will shed some light on this thing. Thanks for any help you all might have. Hi Appliance Assistant, I hope you can help me. I have a Maytag Centennial model # MVWC400XW3.

The error codes are F0E5 and F7E1. I have replaced the shift actuator twice thinking that the first one was bad. When performing test 3a from the service technicians booklet, I am not able to put the machine in manual test mode. The basket turns freely,the wiring harness is good, the resistance across the shifter motor is good and the suspension looks good. Then for the next test for the shifter switch I am again unable to put it into manual test mode. When I tried to put it into manual test mode the lid lock would not lock. I then replaced the main control with a used onethere was no change.

It still had the same two codes. I then removed the top panel so I could watch what it was doing. The agitate mode would not always change directions, and sometimes it would just keep going in one direction only.

When the agitate mode missed a direction change there would be a very noticeable drag on the motorthe RPM’s would drop significantly. There is also an occasional brief slipping or clicking sound when shifting from agitate to spin I think.

Thanks in advance, MAL. I have a Maytag Centennial Model MVWC200XW1 washer that leaks/pours water on occasion. Took the back panel off to find that the water comes out of what appears to be an overflow hole at the top of the outer tub on the right side (when facing the back of the washer) just about directly below where the electrical cord goes into the machine. While watching it the washer run (back panel off), I could see the inner and outer tubs filling with water.

Filled correctly and moved to the wash cycle. While the tub was agitating (spinning during the wash cycle) I could see the water level rising in the outer tub until it reached the top and spilled through this hole down the outside of the outer tub, along the skirt, and onto the floor. At one point the water was pouring out so fast that when it hit the plastic that stuck out from the side from the suspension system it was spraying sideways and hitting the dryer about a foot away.

If this is an overflow hole like I think, what is broken that is causing it to be needed? During the rinse and spin cycles all of the water goes out the hose as expected, it’s just during the wash cycle (especially with small/medium loads of sheets) that this sometimes causes a problem.

Thanks for any insight you can give. Hellow my name is Tom. I purchased a maytag centennial on 10-25-16. Model mvwc415ew2 serial c63833078 today it started making a ticking sound during the spin cycle. I can duplicate the sound by rocking the tub forward toward the outer cabinet. I removed the plastic bleach tub and peered into cabinet and can see a small piece of metal hanging off the tub and it appears to be hitting the metal cabinet and causing the ticking sound. Any ideas on what this is or if it will cause harm?

I purchased the 3 year extended plan through local hardware store and they are going to contact me but i want to know if i should repair or exchange. They said both are an option. I have a pic but i am not sure how to attach it here. I am replacing the suspension rods in my maytag centennial model MVWC300XWO. I watched the video for replacing the rods and I’m trying to remove them. I got the ball off and when i go down to squeeze the tabs to release the rod assembly there are no tabs (which i also verify by comparing the new rod kit) and it seems that I will need to remove them from underneath the washer.

Is this correct? I got it out of where it is held, but the only way it seems it can come completely out is through the bottom. Just did a shock kit on one of these washers this morning You are correct on the Maytag Centennial washer you do need to remove and replace the tub suspension rods through the bottom of the washer: ( They don’t have the handy cutout / clip system that was on the video you watched. The other thing that is slightly different with the Centennial washer from other styles is that the top cap that the rod locks into needs to rest at a 90º angle to the cutout and push all the way down into the cap locking it into place.

You may want to take a look at what I mean before you a trying it on the washer. The rest of the repair should be about the same. I have a Maytag Centennial Commercial Washer model #MVWC425BW1. It drains but does not spin. The clothes are soaked when the cycle is done. I tried to pull diagnostic codes but I am having a hard time understanding what they mean.

The first code after entering the diag mode is that all lights flash. To me that is an F15???? The next set is the Sensing light, the rinse light, the spin light, and the done light. After that I just get a done light. I called an appliance place and they said they put an actuator on it and it will be fine. The very next load.same thing.

Had to wring the clothes out by hand. Any advice would be appreciated!! I have a maytag centennial MVWC200XW0. The problem that i am having is after the washer finishes its cycle. When the done light comes on I open the lid and lid lock starts to flash. With the lid lock flashing the washing will not operate or do anything.

I will hold the start button and it will not reset. I reset the washer by unplugging the power cord and plugging back up again. Then the washer will run a complete cycle and the problem happens all over again.

The error code that that it is giving when this lid lock light comes on is the motor control fault Error F1E2. I have reset this error and run the automatic diagnostic test and everything test out fine with no errors. I have tested everything in manual the washer will spin and agitate just fine. I only get this error after the cycle is finished. Everything that i have read on the internet said the shift actuator is the biggest problem with this washer so i replaced it already.

This was not the problem. Do you have any ideas what could cause this? That is a strange problem! If you try to manually run the main wash motor does it do anything? Do you hear any humming or clicks after the tub is full and the water shuts off, or does it immediately go down the drain? My first thought is perhaps your washer’s drain hose is inserted to far down into the home drain pipe, or taped in place causing a siphon effect that is sucking the water out of the tub (if the water immediately goes down the drain) If you can hear the drain pump actually pumping the water out, my second hypothesis would be that the control board has an issue and is powering the drain when it should not be.

I definitely lean toward the siphon idea! Here is a link to the control: It’s a very expensive washer control, so if it is that it’s probably best to replace the washer: ( Good luck! Would the actuator keep the washing machine from starting i checked the stored codes and they read F7E5 & F7E6, I checked the resistance on the actuator and it was close to 0 ohms when I ran the diagnostics check it wouldn’t agitate or spin I was wondering if these would be problems from a faulty actuator.

I also have been thinking it could be from the motor or capacitor on the motor but I’m unaware on how to check if its the motor/capacitor.(although the washer does slightly spin like normal during the diagnostics tests) any help is very appreciated thanks. The motor on this washer only runs in one direction and the shifter is what engages and disengages the washers tub for spin. So the shifter may not be disengaging the tub for the agitation mode.

It sounds like the motor and the capacitor are working, it only does a short spin in diagnostics. Replacing the shifter is probably worth a try! If you select one of the advertising links on the “Appliance Parts” tab of the navigation of this page, they will allow you to return the part if you install it and it does not solve the problem. If you figure it out I would love to hear the outcome!