Chevy Hhr Manual Codes

Posted on  by admin

This is the COMPLETE Service Repair Manual for the CHEVY CHEVROLET HHR. Production model years 2006. It covers every single detail on your car. All models, and.

  1. Chevy Hhr Manual Transmission

In a Nutshell In this article, we'll tell you how to replace the stereo and speakers in your HHR. Removing and replacing the factory radio is a relatively simple process that requires nothing more than tools and patience.

Chevy hhr manual transmissionManual

In exchange for the work, you'll get much better sound and up-to-date functionality. Upgrading the stock speakers will unleash the full power of your new receiver.

In some cases, you might have to drill new mounting holes for the aftermarket speakers, but that's not as challenging as you might think. A small van like this is a great place for bass. The factory sub is kind of a pain to get to, but you can replace it with something better. You can also add a subwoofer enclosure (or two or three) and add serious thump to your tunes.

Full Story Overview of the Chevy HHR The Chevrolet HHR ('Heritage High Roof') is unmistakably retro and proud of it. This compact wagon traces its distinct look all the way back to the 1949 Chevy Suburban, so it comes by its looks honestly. Often dismissed as a PT Cruiser copycat, the HHR is very much its own kind of ride. Sure, it was styled by the same guy credited with the PT (Bryan Nesbitt, who'd moved over to GM by this time), but the HHR harkens back to a time when vehicles like this hauled gear to job sites or vacationers to remote hunting lodges. The HHR is a broad-shouldered, brawny little wagon and while it's perfectly happy running errands, you get the feeling that it's willing to do some hard work whenever you are.

If you have the high-performance, turbocharged 2008-2010 SS model, it's also ready to play. Whether you have the standard wagon or the panel wagon, the HHR gives you the everyday utility you'd expect, but without the bland, boxy styling that makes it hard to remember which one's yours every time you walk out of the hardware store. A design like this is going to look cool for years to come, so why not make it sound cool, too? This article is an overview of your vehicle's audio system and its upgrade options.

If you're looking for step-by-step instructions on how to install a car stereo or speakers in your HHR, there's nothing better than our exclusive ™. This detailed, well-illustrated document is free with your Crutchfield order, or you can purchase one separately for $9.99.

Factory stereo system The HHR was available with two basic factory stereo systems centered around a single-disc AM/FM receiver with an auxiliary input. The base package used six speakers, while the premium Pioneer package had seven, including a factory subwoofer. Options included steering wheel controls, Bluetooth® connectivity, and speed-sensitive volume control. GM's popular OnStar system, an option in 2006 and 2007, became a standard feature in 2008. Your HHR's dash will comfortably hold either a DIN (2') or double-DIN (4') receiver, so you can install pretty much anything from a digital media receiver to a big-screen DVD/Nav receiver. A number of receivers will fit, but the HHR's 6-1/2' cavity depth might be a limiting factor.

The Chevy HHR's factory radio (Crutchfield Research Photo) Replacing your factory radio Removing the factory radio is a relatively simple process that requires nothing more than a couple of tools and a bit of patience. To start, use a to gently pry out the receiver/climate control trim panel in the center of the dash, then disconnect harnesses to remove the panel. You'll need to remove the eight 7mm screws securing the climate control unit and the factory radio. Once you've done that, lower the climate control unit and pull the radio out, then disconnect the harnesses, and remove it. Installing your new stereo is largely a matter of reversing the steps above. You will need a mounting bracket that's discounted with Crutchfield stereo purchases. You'll also get complete wiring instructions and a Crutchfield MasterSheet™, which contains in-depth info on how to remove and replace your new stereo gear.

The HHR's factory warning chimes are built into the radio, and in order to retain them, you must use the factory integration adapter recommended by Crutchfield. This is a safety issue and it's important. In fact, we cannot offer technical support for any installation undertaken without the correct adapter. The good news is that the adapter needed is the same one that allows you to retain OnStar. The better news is that it's discounted when you buy it with a compatible receiver from Crutchfield. Tools needed: Panel tool, 7mm socket, socket wrench and extension Steering wheel controls It's relatively easy to retain the steering wheel audio controls in your HHR when you install a new stereo. When you enter your vehicle information, our database will choose the adapter you need to make your factory steering wheel controls work with your new receiver.

You'll get a discount on this adapter, too, when you buy it with your new receiver. Replacing your factory speakers The HHR has speakers in the front doors, A-pillars, and rear doors. The HHR's front door speakers (Crutchfield Research Photo) Front door speakers As with most vehicles these days, replacing the HHR's factory speakers starts with removing the front door panels. What you find behind the panels depends on your truck's factory stereo system. If your HHR is equipped with the base stereo, you'll find a pair of 6-1/2' speakers. If you have the Pioneer system, they'll be 6-3/4' models. A wiring harness is not available for the Pioneer package, so you’ll need to cut off the factory connectors and splice the vehicle's speaker wires to your new speaker wires.

Removing the door panel is the easy part, but that doesn't mean you can rush through it. You're dealing with plastic, clips, and wiring, so take your time and work carefully. Atsg service manual.

Start by prying off the screw cover behind the door release and removing the Torx T30 screw beneath it. Next, pry out the rubber mat in the door pull cup and remove two more Torx T30 screws. At the rear of the door panel, you'll see a push pin retaining clip. Press in the center of the pin, then pry out the clip. Next, pry out the sides and bottom of the door panel to release those clips, then pry out a similar clip located at the top edge of the sail panel area. Lift the panel, disconnect the wiring harnesses and the door release cable, then remove the door panel.

If you have the standard system, you'll remove one 7mm screw and unhook the speaker. If you have the Pioneer, you'll remove four Phillips screws. The base speakers can be replaced with 5-1/4' or 6-1/2' speakers. They're easy enough to find, but the HHR's spade-shaped opening means you’ll need to drill new screw holes in order to secure the adapter brackets that are included free with your speaker purchase. The easiest way to do this is to hold up the speaker bracket around the opening, mark where the new holes will go, then drill out the new holes.

Be careful when you're drilling, paying attention to things like wiring, windows, and safety devices. And always check your drilling depth and location to avoid damaging your vehicle. Replacing the Pioneer speakers is a bit less labor-intensive. Aftermarket 5-1/4', 6-1/2', or 6-3/4' speakers will fit, though the smaller ones will need the help of your free speaker bracket.

If you're installing an aftermarket 6-3/4' speaker, you might, depending on the size of your new speaker's magnet, need to cut out the back of the plastic cup or mounting bracket. Tools needed: Phillips screwdriver, small flat blade screwdriver, panel tool, 7mm socket, socket wrench and extension, Torx T30 driver, drill and 1/8' bit. The HHR's tweeters are mounted in the front pillars (Crutchfield Research Photo) Front pillar speakers The HHR's 1-1/2' tweeters are located at the base of the A-pillars.

Getting to them is easy, but replacing them requires a little creativity. Not a ton, mind you, but a little. Use a panel tool to pry open the 'airbag' emblem and remove the 7mm screw from the pillar trim panel. Pry out the top edge of the trim panel to release the retaining clip. Pull out the trim and disconnect the wiring harness to remove.

Remove the two Torx T10 screws securing the tweeters, then remove the tweeters. You'll need to fabricate a mounting bracket or use a to hold your aftermarket tweeters in place. An aftermarket wiring adapter is not available, so you'll also need to splice into the factory wiring. It sounds like a bit of work, but it's worth it if you're planning to install a set of component speakers. This is a great location, and you'll definitely hear the difference in your favorite music. Tools needed: Panel tool, Torx T10 driver. The HHR wagon's rear door (Crutchfield Research Photo) Rear door speakers As noted earlier, the HHR was available in a standard wagon with the expected number of windows, or a panel wagon that blocked off both rear side windows to add extra utility and space for corporate logos.

Or, we hope, really cool murals involving warlocks and dragons. The mere existence of the two models underlines the fact that the HHR, while technically a 'compact wagon,' was a true descendant of its hard-working forebears. In addition to obvious things, like overall utility and the amount of natural light allowed into the cabin, the two HHRs also differ in the amount of work necessary to replace the rear door speakers.

If you have a wagon, the removal and replacement info for the rear doors is essentially the same as it is for the front doors. Your Crutchfield MasterSheet has all the step-by-step instructions, plus photos, but it really is the same basic deal – same sizes, same techniques, same drilling new speaker holes when needed. The panel wagon, on the other hand, is a bit different. That panel, on the inside of the HHR, is a door-sized piece of plastic. The interior door mechanism is basic, since the doors were primarily operated by buttons on the keyfob and dashboard. Rear door in the panel wagon (Crutchfield Research Photo) You'll start by prying off three retaining clips on the top edge of the panel. Pry out the screw cover behind the door release handle and remove one Torx T30 screw.

Next, you'll pry out the retaining clip on rear edge of door panel by pressing in the center pin, then prying out the clip. Then, carefully pry out the sides and bottom of the door panel to release 10 clips.

Disconnect the door release cable and remove the panel. As noted earlier, no wiring harness is available for the Pioneer, so if your HHR is so equipped, you’ll need to cut off the factory connectors and splice into your new speaker wires. A speaker adapter bracket is required, and it's included free with your speaker purchase. The rest of the front door instructions also apply to the panel wagon.

Tools needed: Phillips screwdriver, small flat blade screwdriver, panel tool, 7mm socket, socket wrench and extension, Torx T30 driver, drill and 1/8' bit. The factory subwoofer and amp (Crutchfield Research Photo) Bass in your HHR Pioneer-equipped HHRs have an 8', 2-ohm subwoofer located in the cargo area, behind a panel on the driver's side. The factory amp is back there, too. If you replace the sub, you should replace the factory amp as well, just to be sure the sub is getting the power it needs. Getting to them involves removing the back seat, most of the rear panels, and the cargo floor.

In other words, it's a bit labor-intensive, so if you're going to go to the trouble, we'd suggest going with the best sub/amp combo you can fit back there. This procedure is not covered in the Crutchfield MasterSheet for the HHR, but our advisors have all the info you'll need to point you (or your professional installer) in the right direction. If you want to add big-time bass, the panel wagon offers a lot of room for an enclosed sub. The available space measures 39' W x 28' H x 48'-56' D, so you really can put a massive sub box back there.

Thinking about 12' subwoofers? The regular wagon offers a reasonable 38' W x 13' H x 28'-34' D space, so if hauling kids and cargo isn't a big part of your life, you can still go big in an HHR. If you do have real-world concerns like groceries and sports equipment, a will give you plenty of bass power in a compact, practical package. Other options for your HHR There are lots of things you can do to make your hhr into an even cooler ride than it is already.

Here are few ideas. Kenwood CMOS-320 backup camera Backup camera The HHR panel wagon offers a lot of utility, but it comes at the expense of visibility. A will make life in the urban jungle a whole lot easier.

We offer cameras from Kenwood, Alpine, Sony, Pioneer, and more. Some are designed to work with same-brand receivers only, but others come with a composite video connector and will work with almost any video receiver. Foam speaker baffles To get the most out of your new door speakers, we recommend a set of. The HHR is a big space and the doors are somewhat thin. The baffles compress easily to form a mounting seal that can reduce panel vibration. They also protect the speaker from dirt and moisture. If you use them along with a, you'll enjoy improved sound and performance.

Security Installing a security system in your HHR isn't easy (security systems rarely are), but it's definitely a good idea. Our Crutchfield Advisors can help figure out what you need to get the job done, but we usually recommend taking your car and new gear to a professional installer. Kevin Wymer from New Lothrop Posted on 6/16/2016 Hi, I have a 2011 Chevy HHR LS. I purchased the car without the pioneer amp/sub. I recently purchased the sub/amp from a junk yard. I figured that because I have all the wiring harness for things like the power seats they would be there for the sub/amp combo. When I took the paneling off I couldn't find any of the connectors.

Does this not come on my car? If not, where can I purchase the entire wire set. Also, will this work with my current stock radio. Dan from Glenview Posted on 8/13/2015 My 2010 HHR radio has become intermittent in 1 channel.

I'm still diagnosing the speakers, but in the event I need to replace the radio, I'd like to know if any aftermarket radios accommodate the On-Star interface, including: display of incoming/outgoing phone numbers when using On Star phone redirection of phone audio thru radio speakers when using On Star phone display of turn-by-turn instructions I'm pretty happy with the OEM radio, and I'd rather not give up these features, however if I need to replace it, I'd like to know which features are supported in the aftermarket. Sort of surprised this wasn't discussed in the forums.

Chevy Check Engine Light Codes Welcome to the Chevy Check Engine Light codes page. Below you will find the most complete list of Chevy trouble codes available. The code definitions are a good starting point when determining the cause of the service engine light but where do you go from there? We have a large number of resources to help you repair the problem. Here is how we suggest you proceed. Look up your code definition.

Chevy Hhr Manual Transmission

This tells you where to start testing. If you are unsure of any abbreviations, check out the acronym list by clicking on the link at the left. Next, read our article, and if there is an article related to the system you are testing, such as Oxygen Sensors or EGR concerns, read these as well. They will provide valuable info! If there is a link to a specific diagnosis strategy for the code then follow that and start testing. If there is no procedure for your manufacturer specific code, then I suggest referring to a similar generic OBD II code (these are listed numerically by system type) to get a good idea of what to look for.

If at this point you still need assistance use the 'Get Help' link and let us know how we can help. We can provide information on component location, specifications, circuit color/location and more. We do ask that you please read the info available on the site first so that we can help reduce repeat questions.

So please read our and when you're ready jump in! Also, we value your feedback and like to hear stories of unusual fixes or concerns you may have run into with your Check Engine Light, so feel free to share your experiences by using the 'Contact Us' link. We do our best to update these Chevy Check Engine Light codes as frequently as possible.

If you find one missing let us know and we we'll add it immediately! Please use the form on our Contact Page to get in touch with us. We certainly understand how frustrating it can be to look for a code definition and have it not online when you need it.

And lets face it, if the service engine light is on then you need it now! It's easiest to use the 'Find On This Page' feature of your browser's 'Edit' menu to find codes on this page as the list is quite long.

These are listed in numerical order for easy searching. When retrieving Chevy trouble codes with an OBD II scan tool, proceed as follows: 1.

Connect scan tool to the 16-pin data link connector (DLC) located underneath the steering column. The connector may have a removable cover. Turn the ignition on. Follow scan tool manufacturer's operating instructions to access the Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC's). Remember, these are manufacturer specific codes only. Refer to our Generic OBD II code list for definitions on all other Chevy diagnostic trouble codes.